A Scenic Drive on Washington’s North Cascades Highway

Autumn in the Pacific Northwest is a carnival of colors as the trees start dressing in their fall finery. It’s a peak time to be in the mountains to witness alders and cottonwoods dropping butter-yellow leaves and maples showcasing their brilliant red and lime-green leaves.

Golden larches glow among the evergreens on the lower slopes, and the surrounding meadows are on fire with huckleberry bushes turning burgundy. Who could resist taking the North Cascades Highway, also called Highway 20, in Washington State at this time of year?

Begin Your Journey in Seattle

The highway is a picturesque segment of the state’s Cascade Loop, a 430-mile drive that takes around 9 ½ hours to drive straight through. If you take the loop, start in Seattle and head north to Everett.

You’ll want to stop to breathe the salty sea air in cities like Oak Harbor, Langley or Anacortes. They’re on some of the islands you’ll navigate. This route, best covered in five- to-10 days, offers engaging experiences whether you’re a rock climber, bird watcher, photographer, or sightseer.

North Cascades Highway

We’re going to concentrate on the North Cascades Highway section of the loop (Highway 20) because its allure is soaring snow-capped peaks, forested valleys and charming towns. The lake-dotted terrain, lofty cedars, and firs with velvet fronds will wrap you into the scenic panorama.

To take this portion of the Cascade Loop, start from Seattle, where it’s about a 1 ½ hour drive to approach the North Cascades Highway. Your 140-mile journey into the “American Alps” begins in Sedro-Woolley in the West–head east off Interstate 5 to take Highway 20 at Sedro-Woolley—and ends with the quaint town of Twisp in the East. 

North Cascades National Park

The North Cascades Highway is a pictorial winding road that runs through the northern part of Washington State. Most of the highway is in the North Cascades National Park, a sprawling wilderness area with more than 300 glaciers, the most in the Lower 48.

Wildlife explodes here with butterflies, peregrine falcons, herons, eagles, bats, ducks, salmon, wolves, wolverines and bears. There is no fee to enter the park, and it is open year-round with recreation opportunities—hiking, fishing, boating, skiing, snowshoeing, and wildlife viewing.

Plan a weekend getaway or, even better, an extended road trip to stop along the way to relish lush cascading waterfalls, old-growth forests, and the refreshing aroma of cut hay and farmland in the Methow Valley.

Some of the stops include the visitor center in Newhalem where there is a new film and a wheelchair-friendly trail, a convenient leg stretcher. Newhalem is a company town founded in the early 20th century to house workers building the Skagit Hydroelectric Project. The project includes three dams and powerhouses.

Amazing Waterfalls, Views and Wildlife

Another stop is the Diablo Lake Overlook to observe the lake’s stunning turquoise color. Glaciers feed the lake, grinding rock into fine silt as they advance. The silt, suspended in the lake, gives the water its color. Some days it’s deep blue, depending on how sunny the day is. You can fish on the lake or hike from the Ross Dam Trailhead. For a thrill, drive across the 389-foot Diablo Dam.

Gorge Creek Falls is one of the most accessible among the abundant waterfalls. A short paved path along an interpretive trail leads to a dramatic viewpoint next to the highway. There’s also a 0.8-mile loop trail leading to views of the Skagit River Gorge and Gorge Lake.

You can drive right up to most scenic spots in the park, and the best of them is the Washington Pass Overlook, the highest point along the North Cascades Highway at an elevation of 5477 ft. where you’ll feel like you’re standing on top of the world.

The overlook is after the famous hairpin turn at the base of Liberty Bell Mountain. It has a parking lot is accessible and has an almost 360-degree view of Liberty Bell Mountain, Kangaroo Ridge and the massive peaks that jut above Early Winters Creek.

Ross Lake offers one of the largest populations of bald eagles in the United States. Eagles arrive in the late fall to feed on salmon carcasses along the Skagit River, the largest wintering population of bald eagles in Washington State.

Launch your boat or join a river outfitter. Enjoy camping at Rasar, Howard Miller Steelhead Park and Forest Service campgrounds along the Cascade, Sauk and Suiattle Rivers.

Read More: Croatia’s Natural Wonders: The Top 13 Beautiful Waterfalls You Must See

Cute Towns to Visit Along the Way

There are three captivating towns in the Methow Valley as you head east. Mazama has a population of 200 people and a handful of businesses. It’s a hub for outdoor recreation with its access to rock climbing, hiking, fishing, horseback riding, cross-country skiing, and biking.

This is where you can arrange multi-day adventures. You can also access the Pacific Crest Trail to Cutthroat Pass at the Rainy Pass Trailhead Road between Diablo and Mazama. That’s a comfortable day hike.

Twisp is much larger than Mazama due to its population of 992 residents. Its picturesque setting at the confluence of the Twisp and Methow rivers belies its pronouncement as the smallest creative district in Washington State. The galleries, outdoor art sculptures and year-round arts events keep that pronouncement honest.

You’re in the West, so shouldn’t there be a town with wooden boardwalks and the oldest legal saloon in Washington State? That’s Winthrop, known for the American Old West design of all its charming buildings. It’s also a cross-country skiing site, with over 120 miles of groomed trails.

The Remote Village of Stehekin

Now you’re through the North Cascades Highway, but there’s one more spot you might want to consider on the eastern side of the highway: Stehekin, whose allure is its seclusion. The only way in and out is by boot or boat, so time has stopped.

Nestled at the headwaters of Lake Chelan, the Stehekin community lives life a little slower, and that means it offers visitors an escape from the bustle of daily life. The roughly 90 year-round residents manage what few dining and overnight places exist.

This remote village, with its old cars, is a refreshing throwback in time that presents historical, cultural, and outdoor activities that will connect you with its majestic surroundings.

You can hike the scenic 23-mile from Highway 20 to High Bridge where you hop on the red bus to Stehekin. Most travelers take the Lady of the Lake ferry from Chelan. Make lodging reservations before arriving in Stehekin.

There are campgrounds and backcountry camps, but there is no cell phone reception. Many businesses accept credit cards, but grocery and food services are sparse. Get around Stehekin by foot, bike or hop the antiquated red bus.

Early snow may be dusting the jagged peaks, and the azure alpine lakes will take your breath away. Go now before the highway closes for the winter.

If You Go:

• The best time to go is late May to early October. The high-elevation sections close during winter.
• Check the current road conditions with Washington State Department of Transportation.
• There are few gas stations.

Where to Stay

• Lake Diablo: North Cascades Institute is affordable and includes meals
• Winthrop: Sun Mountain Lodge
• Twisp: Casia Lodge and Ranch
• Other accommodation options

Where to Camp

• Colonial Creek
• Goodell Creek
• Newhalem Creek

Where to Eat

• Winthrop: Sun Mountain Lodge
• Twisp: Casia Lodge and Ranch
• Mazama: Goat’s Beard

Tour and Trail Suggestions

• Lake Diablo boat tour—reserve at ncascades.org
• Hike—all trailheads are fee-free; some camping is available & permits may be required:
• Cascade Pass/Sahalee Arm
• Thunder Creek Trail
• Rainy Pass Trailhead
• Hidden Lake Lookout
• Ruby Creek
• Wing Lake-rugged
• Copper Ridge and Chillawack River trails-challenging

Learning Centers

• North Cascades Institute at Lake Diablo-environmental Learning Center
• American Alpine Institute—based in Bellingham, WA,-skills courses and summit attempts

Read More:

• Cascade Mountain Range: How I Awakened a Sleeping Volcano
• Hiking Austria’s Krimml Waterfalls
• A Local’s Guide to Three Days in Hobart, Tasmania
• Sound Living: Weekend in Seattle
• Top 10 Best Road Trips in the United States

Author Bio: Marcia McGreevy Lewis (she/her) lives in Seattle and is a retired feature writer for a Washington newspaper. She has written for literary journals, magazines, travel sites and books. Reach her on Facebook and Instagram: marcialewis25, Twitter: @McGreevyLewis and Linkedin: marcia-lewis. Clips: gravatar.com/profile/about Display name: mmcgreevylewis