Skopje, Macedonia: Where Ancient History Meets Modern Charm

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Our adventure in Skopje began on a crisp morning, the city’s skyline presenting a fascinating blend of ancient fortresses and modern hotels. My wife, Nataliya, and I were eager to delve into Skopje’s rich tapestry—a place we frankly knew very little about. This was a side-trip from our week in Bulgaria, North Macedonia being just a few hours from Sofia.

Our guide, Dragan, was a history professor, a tour guide—and a Skopje enthusiast. He met us along the river among the bridges, statues, and diverse buildings. His evident passion for his hometown loomed as largely as the statuary all around us.

Our first destination was the Stone Bridge, a timeless sentinel over the Vardar River. Dragan’s narration transformed the bridge from a mere architectural checkpoint into a living chronicle of the city’s history.

“This bridge has stood for centuries. Ottomans built a bridge here during the 15th century, but they built it on the foundations of a bridge from the 6th century,” he said with pride. “And that bridge may very well have been built upon earlier foundations from a Roman bridge. It’s more than stones and mortar. This bridge is witness to the epochs of Skopje’s journey.”

As we strolled across the bridge, we could almost hear the echoes of ancient footsteps, from medieval traders to modern commuters. Once a vital transportation artery, it is now pedestrian-only and popular with tourists. The bridge was a perfect introduction to the layers of history in Skopje.

East Meets West in the Old Bazaar

Leaving the bridge, we wandered into the Old Bazaar, a vibrant marketplace that has been the heart of Skopje for centuries. The narrow cobblestone streets were alive with the scents of spices, the colors of textiles, and the sounds of merchants plying their wares. Dragan’s knowledge of and love for the bazaar were evident as he guided us through its maze-like alleys.

“This is where East meets West,” he explained, gesturing to the blend of Ottoman and European influences in the architecture and merchandise. We visited hidden courtyards and quaint shops. At a small café, we paused for a traditional Macedonian coffee.

Serenity at Mustafa Pasha Mosque

Our next stop was the Mustafa Pasha Mosque, an oasis of serenity amid the city’s hustle. Built in the 15th century, the mosque is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. Dragan’s reverence for this sacred space was palpable as he described the intricate carvings and the tranquil courtyard where worshippers gathered.

Inside, the cool marble and the gentle murmur of prayers created a sense of peace that contrasted the loud, bustling, vibrant streets outside. “This mosque is not just a place of worship, as it has been for hundreds of years” Dragan said softly. “It’s a symbol of Skopje’s cultural mosaic, where different peoples have coexisted for centuries.”

Commanding Views from Kale Fortress

Bright sun bearing down upon us, we continued our journey to Kale Fortress, perched on a hill overlooking the city. The fortress, with its robust walls and commanding views, has been a strategic stronghold since the 6th century. “Many historians believe Kale Fortress was built by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. Perfect defensive location, overlooking the land and the Vardar River.”

From the top, Skopje sprawled beneath us, a patchwork of old and new, of tradition and progress. “Yesterday’s strategic defensive position is todays beautiful panoramic selfie station,” Dragan said as he looked around at tourists with their cell phones. The view, despite selfie seeking invaders, was breathtaking.

Echoes of Faith at St. Clement of Ohrid Church

Our exploration of Skopje’s spiritual heritage continued at the Church of St. Clement of Ohrid. This modern Orthodox cathedral featured distinctive rounded domes and striking frescoes.

Dragan explained, “the architecture is unique.” He pointed out the blend of Byzantine and contemporary elements. Inside, the vibrant icons, wood carvings, and the serene atmosphere invited reflection. We watched as one visitor lit a candle and another kissed an icon on a pedestal in front of the iconostasis.

Honoring Compassion at the Memorial House of Mother Teresa

One of the most poignant stops on our tour was the Memorial House of Mother Teresa. Born in Skopje in 1910, Mother Teresa’s legacy of compassion and service is honored in this modest yet inspiring museum. Dragan’s voice softened as he recounted stories of her early life and her calling to help the poor. He also seemed defensive, as though he’d been used to debating on the subject of her origins.

“For anyone who questions Mother Teresa’s Macedonian origins, her birth certificate is right her, in black and white. She was born in Skopje. And we’re proud to claim her as one of our own.”

The museum’s exhibits, including photographs, letters, and personal belongings, offered a touching glimpse into the life of this remarkable woman. “Mother Teresa’s spirit of selfless service is a guiding light for Skopje,” Dragan said. “Her legacy reminds us of the power of kindness and compassion.”

Our journey culminated at Macedonia Square, the vibrant heart of Skopje. The square, dominated by the towering statue of Alexander the Great, buzzed with energy.

“This square has always been the center of Skopje’s social and political life,” Dragan noted. We watched as locals and tourists mingled, enjoying the cafes and street performances. The statue of Alexander the Great, a symbol of national pride, stood as a reminder of Macedonia’s storied past.

“From Alexander the Great to Mother Teresa—from conquering spirit to compassionate spirit—Skopje and the Macedonian people embody both,” Dragon said. His chin was up rather than down, indicating a little more pride than humility.

Recent Monuments to People from the Past

The sheer number of statues along the riverbanks and squares of Skopje caught our attention. There were impressive statues everywhere—so many that it almost seemed to diminish any individual one’s importance. It very well may be that we were seeing more statues per square foot than we’d seen in any other city. At least it felt that way.

“There sure are an impressive number of statues here,” Nataliya said.

Dragan nodded and began to unravel the story behind this open-air gallery of modern monuments.

“These statues are part of a controversial urban renewal project called Skopje 2014,” he explained. “Launched in 2010, the project aimed to revitalize the city’s image and boost tourism.”

We paused, admiring statue after statue. “The project’s goals were ambitious,” Dragan continued. “They wanted to enhance Macedonian national identity and create a long, prestigious lineage for the nation. But this came at a high cost, estimated between €200-€500 million.”

Nataliya raised an eyebrow. I smiled. “Sometimes less is more. But it looks like here, more is more.”

Dragan nodded. “The project met with significant criticism. Many felt it was a waste of money, and others saw it as an attempt at historical revisionism.”

I noted that the statues were not cheap replicas. They appeared to be the real deal, chiseled from stone or cast in bronze.

Read More: Bitola, Macedonia: A City with a Beating Heart

Rebuilding Skopje Post-Earthquake

“You have to remember,” he said, “that Skopje suffered a devastating earthquake in the 1960s that destroyed 80 percent of this city center. It all had to be rebuilt. The Skopje 2014 project was meant to put our city center on the map again, with new buildings, bridges, monuments, and statues. Some saw it as a vanity project. But there was a need to rebuild our city center into something we could be proud of.”

Dragan led us to another grand statue, this one of Philip II of Macedon, Alexander’s father. “The focus on Alexander the Great is particularly controversial,” he said. “This statue here is a nod to him and his lineage, but Greece disputes Macedonia’s claim over Alexander and his father.”

“North Macedonia’s claim?” I asked.

Dragan took a deep breath, seeming annoyed with this designation. “Since 2019 that’s what we’re called. Part of the old Macedonian kingdom was in Greece, part here. History doesn’t care about today’s borders. A lot of people have a lot of opinions. But when you spend your entire lifetime identifying as a certain nationality, you don’t instinctively change it overnight.”

“So you’re a Macedonian,” I said.

“I’m a Skopjanec first,” he said. “East, west, north, south, I don’t care. I’m Macedonian.”

After our nods faded, our attention went back to the statue of Phillip I, father of Alexander the Great, once ruler here.

“Philip was a visionary leader,” Dragan noted, “and his legacy is deeply intertwined with that of his more famous son.” The statue’s grandeur reflected the historical importance of this ancient king—as modern-day Skopje developers intended.

Celebrating Identity Amidst Controversy

We continued walking as Dragan elaborated on the historical significance and the ensuing controversies. “The statues aim to strengthen Macedonian identity by depicting figures from ancient and medieval periods. But their historical accuracy and the exclusion of figures from other ethnicities in North Macedonia are contentious issues.”

We walked along the bridge, where modern statues of people in suits stood alongside classical figures. Dragan gestured to the mix of styles. “Many locals describe these statues as ‘neoclassical kitsch.’ They feel the ostentatious style clashes with the city’s existing architecture and historical character. I don’t know. I like them. But then, I’m proud of our city and its history.”

Despite the mixed feelings, the statues have undeniably become a conversation starter. Dragan pointed out the Monument to Motherhood, a touching tribute that appeared modern and unpolitical but perhaps took some inspiration from soviet monuments.

As we continued our stroll, we noticed the influx of tourists taking photos of the statues and architecture. Dragan acknowledged the project’s success in this regard. “Skopje 2014 has certainly increased tourism. People are curious about these unique additions to the cityscape.”

Unearthing History at the Archaeological Museum

Our next destination was the Archaeological Museum of Macedonia, a modern building that stands as a guardian of the country’s ancient heritage. As we entered, Dragan’s excitement was palpable. “This museum holds the keys to Macedonia’s distant past,” he said, leading us through halls filled with artifacts from various epochs.

We took in the extensive collection of relics, from Neolithic tools to intricate Roman mosaics. Dragan’s expertise came through as he provided context for several exhibits, weaving stories of ancient civilizations that once thrived in the region. “Every artifact here has a story,” he explained, “and together, they tell the tale of Macedonia’s long and diverse history.”

“You mean North Macedonia,” I said. He took a deep breath, this time rolling his eyes for us both to see. We all smiled.

One exhibit particularly caught our attention: the treasures of the ancient Macedonian kingdom, including golden funeral masks and ornate jewelry. Dragan’s detailed explanations brought these ancient objects to life.

Read More: 16 Top Things to Do in Ohrid, North Macedonia

A Taste of Skopje

No visit to Skopje would be complete without indulging in the local cuisine. Dragan took us to a traditional Macedonian restaurant, where we were treated to a feast of flavors. The meal began with meze, a selection of small dishes including ajvar (a red pepper spread), pindjur (a roasted vegetable relish), and fresh cheeses.

The main course was tavče gravče, a hearty bean stew that is a staple of Macedonian cuisine. As we savored the rich flavors, Dragan explained the cultural significance of the dish. “Tavče gravče is more than just a meal,” he said. “It’s a symbol of home and comfort, enjoyed by families across the country.”

For dessert, we indulged in baklava layered with pastry crust, nuts, and honey. Over coffee, Dragan shared his family recipes for local desserts, his passion for Skopje evident in every word.

A Fusion of Art, Old and New

Our final stop was the Contemporary Art Museum, perched on a hill with a panoramic view of the city. The museum’s modern architecture stood in striking contrast to the ancient landmarks we had explored earlier. Inside, we found a vibrant collection of artworks, ranging from traditional pieces to avant-garde installations.

Dragan’s insights into the evolution of Macedonian art were fascinating. “Art reflects the soul of a society,” he said. “And here, you can see how Skopje’s artistic expression has evolved through the ages.” We admired works by local artists who blended historical themes with contemporary styles, creating a dynamic narrative of cultural identity.

One installation, in particular, captured our imagination: a series of sculptures made from recycled materials, symbolizing resilience and renewal. “This is Skopje in essence,” Dragan remarked. “A city that rebuilds, reimagines, and reinvents itself.”

I smiled. “Even if that means spending half a million Euros on new statues,” I said.”

“Or changing your name from Macedonia to North Macedonia,” Nataliya said.

Dragan smiled. “Even then,” he said.

Sunset over Skopje

As our day in Skopje drew to a close, we found ourselves back at Macedonia Square, watching the city transition from day to night. The lights of the square illuminated the statues and buildings, casting a magical glow over the scene. Dragan’s storytelling had transformed our visit into an immersive experience, bringing history, culture, and personal connections to the forefront.

“There was a time Skopje was a powerful city, and it has been an important location in world history over the years,” Dragan said. “And there have been times that Skopje is barely on the map, forgotten. Today, I’m sure there are people in your country who don’t even know Skopje exists. Don’t even know Macedonia exists.”

“You mean …”

Dragan glared at me, then laughed. We all laughed together. “Whatever you want to call it, Macedonia or North Macedonia, whether you like the newer statues or find them to be overdone, Skopje is an important place in history, an important place today. Skopje is home.”

A place with an advocate as passionate as Dragan, whether you’ve been there or thought of it or even heard of it before, is a place worthy of learning more about, a place worthy of visiting.

We enjoyed our visit to Skopje and are sure to return again one day to learn more, experience more … and perhaps begin to identify some of the 40 or more statues and monuments that went up over the last fifteen years or so.

If You Go:

We made our way to Skopje as a day trip during a stay in Sofia, Bulgaria. A number of companies offer day trip tours, which you can find at such places as Viator and Trip Advisor.

Most of these trips include a local guide, who will be able to tell you about places to eat and shop (and may even go with you).

Skopje is an easy day trip by bus or car from Sofia.

Read More:

• Between East and West: Why North Macedonia Should Be on Your Bucket List
• Bitola, Macedonia: A City with a Beating Heart
• 5 Top Activities in the Balkans
• Yurt Time: A Night in the Uzbek Desert
• Top Tips for Visiting the Statue of Liberty and Central Park

Author Bio: Eric D. Goodman is author of seven books, including Wrecks and Ruins, set in Baltimore and Lithuania, and The Color of Jadeite, a thriller set in China. His most recent book is Faraway Tables, a collection of poems focused on travel and a longing for other places. Learn more about Eric and his writing at www.EricDGoodman.com