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Given that Washington state’s second-largest city is nestled between the Cascade Mountains and the Rocky Mountains, with the Spokane River snaking along the edge of downtown, it might seem like a rugged spot. Yet, during my first visit to Spokane, I found a sophisticated city enhanced by its natural amenities.
Find out where to stay, dine, and visit for an elegant weekend in Spokane.
Spokane History
Spokane was founded in 1873, and throughout its history, it has used the local environment to elevate its status in contrast to other American cities. For example, Spokane had electric street lights in 1886—before Portland—thanks to using the power of waterfalls in the Spokane River. Early founders saw this location as ideal to become a lumber hub with a sawmill on the riverbanks.
Although a fire in 1889 basically destroyed its wooden-built downtown, the rebuilding efforts are still on display with many elaborate (and brick!) historic buildings such as the county courthouse modeled after French chateaus and the Davenport Hotel.
Downtown Spokane
During my first visit to Spokane, the Davenport Hotel was my base camp for the weekend. Built in 1914, this glamorous destination has been through some boom and bust cycles and most recently underwent a significant lobby revitalization to bring it back to its glory days.
The renovation includes the Emporium, where the original “soft” peanut brittle is made fresh daily and available in candy form and mixed into ice cream, and the Lobby Bar, a circular bar surrounded by plush teal velvet seating below a glass atrium ceiling.
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The hotel today offers everything from rooftop yoga in the summer to high tea in the lobby (specifically, Washington Cherry Blossom Afternoon High Tea service in the Palm Court Grill), so it’s a mix of modern amenities and a throwback to elegance.
Visitors can enjoy a glass of wine at the Davenport Hotel’s gorgeous bar or step outside and find themselves in the Cork District, home to many wineries. Washington is the second-largest wine-producing state in the country.
The Barrister Winery Tasting Room is within walking distance from the Davenport Hotel, or add a walk across Riverfront Park and aim for Kendall Yards where there are two options: Maryhill Winery Spokane Tasting Room and OutWest Wines & Ciders.
Explore the City—Past and Present
Riverfront Park is the city’s central hub, where the famed Spokane Falls can be viewed from one of the many bridges that cross the river or even from a gondola car on the Skyride.
Read more details about the park’s artwork and history in this article. As you stroll through the park, you can learn through interpretive signs about the Native Americans who lived and fished here before settlers came and about the 1974 World’s Fair that was held here.
The theme for the World’s Fair, also known as Expo ’74, in Spokane—notably the smallest city to ever host a World’s Fair—was “resource sustainability and environmentalism.”
In an exhibit at the Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture to mark the 50th anniversary of the Expo, it was noted that in an effort to revitalize the city for the big event, some historic buildings were torn down while new landmarks went up.
Perhaps in a nod to environmentalism, I opted to ride the Davenport Hotel’s free bicycle for guests to the museum, which is in Browne’s Addition, the city’s oldest and once most grand neighborhood.
The museum describes itself as “the largest cultural institution in the inland Northwest” and is one of five Smithsonian affiliates in Washington state.
Here, you can see a collection of artifacts from the Plateau Indians, paintings by local and regional artists, and, tucked behind the modern museum buildings, you can tour the historic Campbell House.
Another destination just outside of downtown proper that is worth exploring is Manito Park (although it’s not recommended you ride a bike here, given the hilltop location). A free public park on the city’s “south hill,” this is more of botanical gardens where there was once a zoo on 90 acres surrounded by beautiful bungalows and even stately homes.
At one point in the park’s history, the famed landscape architects John Charles Olmsted and Frederick Law Olmsted Jr. (sons of the landscape architect of New York City’s Central Park), made visits to Spokane as consultants on the park’s design.
One of their suggestions: no zoo. The story goes that local Spokanites didn’t want to give up their zoo just yet (this location was closed in 1932), but they did use many of the Olmsted’s designs.
Today, visitors are treated to five distinct garden areas that still reflect the zoo’s history, so you walk through the former buffalo run, for example, en route to the Japanese Garden. My personal favorite was the Duncan Garden, a classic Renaissance garden with large hedges (some that even make small tunnels!) and seasonal flower plantings.
Spokane is known as the “Lilac City”, and the 23 different species of the spring-blooming shrubs in Manito Park attract thousands of visitors annually.
Dining Out in Spokane
You won’t go hungry in Spokane and can find award-winning spots for a meal.
During my stay at the Davenport Hotel, I was a regular at the Palm Court Grill, where lunch and dinner diners can sit in the “see-and-be-seen” lobby area. Chef Patrick Dahms is the Culinary Director with pedigree from Aspen’s St. Regis Hotel, the Hythe in Vail, and other notable resorts.
Chef Patrick, as he prefers to be called, elevates the menu with local ingredients and wine pairings.
Just a couple of blocks away is the award-winning Wild Sage, where I had a scrumptious meal. All of the menu items here feature regional fish or local meats and vegetables.
Inland Pacific Kitchen is a one-star Michelin guide restaurant with casual fine dining and an ample weekend brunch that shows off the mélange of flavors in this region with dishes such as shakshuka, smoked salmon benedict, and pork cheek tamale.
If You Go
The only time I needed to call an Uber in Spokane was when I wanted to go for a specific hike well beyond downtown, but otherwise, it was very easy to get around on foot or bicycle in this city.
The Visit Spokane website will have a calendar of events for planning a trip throughout the year, so you can base your decision on things like the lilac blooming or a museum exhibit.
There are several choices for hotels in downtown Spokane, and in a confusing twist, they might be a Davenport. The Davenport Hotels include five distinct properties, each of different vintages and styles: the historic hotel, the Davenport Tower, the Davenport Lusso (which is going to be renovated and will be renamed), the Davenport Grand, and Centennial by Davenport.
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Author Bio: Mindy Sink is a travel guidebook author and freelance travel writer based in Denver, Colorado. You can see her latest adventures and bylines on social media and her website, www.mindysink.com.
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