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The Atlantic Ocean spreads before me, its undulating surface extending unbroken to the horizon save for a single ocean freighter, its deck filled with stacks of multi-colored containers looking for all the world like colorful building blocks on a bathtub toy. A few wispy clouds cling to the pale blue sky.
Standing 145 feet above the Bermuda grass-laden lawn on a narrow catwalk surrounding the lantern room of the Tybee Island Lighthouse, I was immersed in the panoramic views of the island and the surrounding ocean. Breathtaking came to mind.
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Being nearly 15 stories in the air lends itself to a certain amount of serenity as gentle breezes sweep the terrestrial din away. That is until five green t-shirt-clad teenagers burst through the small door of the lantern room onto the catwalk with the decibel-laden enthusiasm that youth brings.
Oh well, so much for serenity, I thought with a smile, or maybe it was a grimace.
The Island
Once known as Savannah Beach, Tybee Island is 15 minutes from Savannah, GA. Although Savannah is the third largest port in America, it sits inland on the Savannah River. So, most of its residents take a short trip to the barrier island to use Tybee’s pristine beaches.
Tybee has been a magnet for visitors since the late 1800s, dating to when a train first connected the barrier island to the mainland. The tiny island, which is only 2.5 miles long, has over three miles of beaches.
On a recent trip, we had slipped out of Savannah to seek a quieter pace, some open space, and the Atlantic breezes. A yellow, diamond-shaped symbol warning us of a turtle crossing brought a smile to our faces.
Traveling through the Lowcountry past the seemingly endless marshes with tall palm trees and swaying river grass, we discovered a world that moved at a more sedate step.
In the distance, a massive brick fortress stood sentinel over the wetlands. Our first stop took us to the Fort Pulaski National Monument.
Fort Pulaski
Although not on Tybee Island, you must pass this Civil War relic to enter Tybee. It is well worth the visit.
Begun in 1829, it took 18 years to complete the construction of the five-sided Fort Pulaski. An estimated twenty-five million bricks were used in the construction of Fort Pulaski.
Two types of bricks were used in the construction: strong red bricks brought in by ship and local, so-called Savannah grey bricks manufactured at the Hermitage Plantation, located three miles outside of Savannah. Enslaved men, women, and children made the bricks at the plantation. A few bricks still show the fingerprints and handprints of their makers.
The walls tower 22 feet high above the water-filled moat surrounding them and are, on average, between five and eleven feet thick of solid brick.
As I stood in the center of the parade ground and surveyed the massive bastion surrounding me, I overheard a young visitor exclaim to his companion, “It’s a castle!”
We were free to wander the fort and explore. The grounds easily swallowed up the few early morning visitors. Barracks for the enlisted men, officer’s quarters, and storage areas were built beneath the vaulted chambers of the walls and are staged to present what life might have been like in 1861. The single-windowed, dank lodgings seemed quite unappealing.
As we wandered, we saw fading graffiti on two chambers. The graffiti was messages painted onto the whitewash covering the red bricks. It had been left by members of the Federal occupiers a century and a half before our visit.
Of course, no fort is complete without a cannon, and a wide variety is scattered around the walls. Nearly a dozen enormous, coal-black behemoths representing the best technology of the time are pointed toward the skyline. Weighing several tons, these guns could fire a 40-lb. projectile over a mile.
The fort’s only battle had lasted all of 30 hours. The confederates surrendered after a horrific bombardment by Union troops. The fort’s surrender closed Savannah as a port. Union troops occupied Fort Pulaski from April 1862 until the end of the Civil War.
Much of the exterior damage was left visible and never repaired. Actual shells are still embedded in the shattered brick face.
Tybee Island Lighthouse
Once we left Fort Pulaski, we crossed the Lazaretto Creek Bridge onto Tybee Island. A lighthouse has stood on Tybee Island since 1791.
In 1861, the top 40 feet of the tower were destroyed during the Civil War when Confederate troops set fire to the tower to prevent the Union troops from using it.
After the Civil War, the lighthouse was rebuilt. The lower sixty feet of the old lighthouse were still intact and used as the base for the new masonry and metal light, which is the lighthouse we see today.
One hundred and seventy-eight steps had led us to the Lighthouse’s observation deck. As we retreated from its airy heights and the teenage occupants, several of their companions feverishly tried to squeeze past us in the narrow confines of the tower to join their comrades at the top.
Upon exiting into the sunlit morning, we discovered the source of the frenzied visitors. A school bus had disgorged its cargo of high-schoolers on a day visit of historical adventure. One of their chaperones gave us a harried smile as she climbed upwards to corral her charges.
We explored the many outbuildings on the 5-acre property. In the light keeper’s home, we learned about the lives of the keeper and their families. Elsewhere, we explained the necessity of running and maintaining the light in all kinds of weather.
A Museum in Fort Screven
Across the way, we visited the Tybee Island Museum. Besides being quite informative of the island’s history, the museum is unique for being housed in Battery Garland. This concrete monstrosity was once a part of Fort Screven, built between 1898 and 1899. Designed to protect the mouth of the Savannah River and shipping, the fort never fired a single shot in anger.
We slipped through the thick-walled, narrow corridors and low-ceilinged rooms that once stored six hundred-pound projectiles and two-hundred-pound bags of gunpowder. As we viewed collections and exhibits covering over four hundred years of Tybee Island history, we learned of Native Americans, pirates, and countless boatloads of tourists. It was a unique environment for a museum.
We took a leisurely drive through the island’s heart past a mix of kitschy, eclectic shops and interesting little art shops that added to the quirky feel of this beach town.
However, our travels were slightly curtailed as we continually encountered city maintenance crews placing barriers across intersections, parking areas, and generally anywhere else to limit one’s path.
Curious about what seemed a slightly inhospitable welcome, we asked our luncheon server what prompted the city-sponsored obstacles. “Orange Crush” was the reply. At our perplexed looks, she informed us that it was the island’s version of spring break for college.
Every year, tens of thousands of spring breakers descend on the island uninvited for a long weekend. The small island was preparing for the onslaught and, hopefully, minimizing the impact. And I thought our green-clad high schoolers were boisterous!
A Seafood Experience
We found our knowledgeable server at The Original Crab Shack. This place is more than just a restaurant—it is an experience!
After several wrong turns, we found a row of tumble-down buildings along Chimney Creek. From the gravel parking lot, we were greeted by a giant crab denoting the entrance. It’s famous for its humble beginnings as a fishing camp and bait shop.
We were guided to an outdoor table on a faded slatwood deck built around tree clusters, which gave off a distinctive treehouse feeling. Several peach-basket lanterns hanging from the branches overhead and a couple of giant plastic gators added to the wonderful, tacky experience.
Our tables overlooked Chimney Creek, where we could watch the occasional fisherman come and go.
The Shack is famous for its Low Country Boil, but we settled on a slightly less challenging lunch. The shrimp salad sandwich, clam stew, and blue crab cake were beyond amazing.
As we ate, we were entertained as the resident cats eased their way through the legs of the patrons. Eyeing us from the creek was a white heron. Or, more likely, eyeing our lunch.
On our way out, we stopped at the Gift Shack and Exotic Bird Aviary, where we listened to the musings of several macaws.
The Quiet North Beach
You don’t go to Tybee Island without visiting its beaches; we are no different. North Beach is the quieter alternative to the island’s more commercialized South Beach.
Whether it was because it was the middle of the week or simply the calm before spring break, we found the beach nearly empty save for a dozen families.
A raised boardwalk carried us across the grassy dunes onto a wide, pristine beach. The quarter-mile beach will bring you to the mouth of the Savannah River. As we watched the comings and goings of the huge freighters, a dolphin briefly broke the surface before disappearing beneath the waves.
Walking along the shoreline, we passed a young man bent over at the waist, sifting through the sand. “Looking for sea shells?” I quipped. “No,” he replied, “Shark’s teeth.” That stopped us in our tracks. It turns out Tybee Island is known for its abundance of shark teeth.
After a few perfunctory swipes in the sand, we left empty-handed while our young acquaintance continued his search for remnants of Jaws.
We were just as thrilled soaking in the stunning ocean views.
We had barely scratched the sand of the small barrier island off Georgia’s coast, but it was a nice respite from the city. Tybee’s easygoing pace, quirky personality, and beautiful beaches made us embrace its charm. You owe it to yourself to visit, too.
If You Go:
Tybee Island is just 20 minutes east of Savannah’s Historic District. Follow US-80 East to Tybee Island. For helpful hints, the Tybee Island Visitor Information Center is located on the right at the first light, on the corner of US-80 East and South Campbell Ave.
Visit Tybee Island https://visittybee.com/
Tybee Island Lighthouse https://www.tybeelighthouse.org/
Fort Pulaski National Monument https://www.nps.gov/fopu/index.htm
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