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Koh Phangan’s reputation as Thailand’s go-to party island truly precedes itself. Its name alone may conjure images of buckets of rum, revellers clad in luminous vests and beach soirees that last until sunrise. What lies beneath this sometimes chaotic characterisation? A place with boundless possibility for spiritual exploration, wellness and community.
I came to Koh Phangan with an awkward over-the-shoulder bag and partial knowledge of the island’s true nature. Koh Phangan is situated in the South of Thailand, nestled between the islands of Koh Samui and Koh Tao.
Many choose to take an internal flight from Bangkok or Krabi to Koh Samui to explore these treasured peninsulas. Once you’ve landed in Samui, a short one-hour ferry will take you over the water to Koh Phangan.
I began my stay in the Northern quarter of the island around Chaloklum Bay, a sleepy fishing village. The calm surroundings provided ample opportunity to work. I managed to intersperse frantic typing with mini sojourns on the village’s white-sand beach; the kind of beach where the only trailing footsteps were from the fishermen and women getting onto their longtails.
Srithanu, a Beautiful Wellness Town
The North was an ideal environment to lay the foundations of a healthy routine. I sought to build on this foundation by heading to the wellness town of Srithanu, a fifteen-minute scooter ride down from where I was previously.
Scooters are essential to experiencing the island. As someone with a fittingly green learner licence, even accessing these breezy speeds of 40mph was something to cherish. Outside of peak season, cars are few and far between; rarely do you have anyone encroaching from behind. Simply sit alongside your thoughts as you cruise the winding roads, noting the handwritten signs alerting drivers about bottles of gasoline or various roadside meats.
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Srithanhu has an abundance of wellness centres, coffee shops and trails (leading to the spectacular views of Zen Beach) – essentially, everything you need to propel equanimity. I’d usually opt for a protein bowl from one of the many vegan cafes to set this wellness in motion. Coupled with a strong coffee, this formidable duo fuelled space for reflection before motoring productivity.
Read More: 5 Reasons Why I Decided to Stay in Pai, North Thailand
Finding Inner Peace with Meditation, Yoga and Walking
These cafes are also hotbeds for conversations with likeminded people, those that have sought out the island for similar reasons and are on mirroring trajectories. In terms of specific communities that centre around self-exploration – take your pick: Yoga, Tantra, Breathwork and Intensive Meditation Retreats are just at the precipice.
The Indriya Meditation Centre offers nine-day Vipassana and Metta retreats (all undertaken in complete silence) for those serious about their Buddhist practice. The Orion Healing Centre provides an array of Reki, Yoga and Meditation classes.
Perhaps the most fascinating of all on Koh Phangan is the Inner Walk programme. Participants are required to walk repeated circuits of a fifteen-metre line for four hours, over the course of four days.
This undertaking aids in extricating someone from identifying with their mind, realising they are the witness to their thoughts, rather than the thoughts themselves. Group talks at the end of each session help facilitate the camaraderie between attendees and crystalise these realisations.
A final note on community – everyone has heard the adage of Thailand being the ‘Land of Smiles’. To me, no place has embodied that truism more than Koh Phangan. Whilst I wrestled with my contradictions, seeking community through practice but still drinking (of which I have more practice) this point was driven home.
Detour to Thongsala: A Night of Neon, Karaoke, and New Friends
Planning to attend the Half Moon, some friends and I ended up foregoing it entirely en route to the party. We stumbled upon some local people dancing and singing in the neon of Thongsala’s main strip.
They beckoned us over and we sat and sank Leos, conversing and laughing whilst other regulars bellowed out karaoke. They were even kind enough to let us desecrate their event and butcher our own songs. After that, they rode us to another bar. We were then promptly decimated at the pool.
I was inclined to produce the same smile at every hostel or resort I stayed at. After needing to decompress for a few days and spend some time in seclusion, I was lucky enough to strike up a friendship with a young manager at the resort – his chosen English name was Raymond.
When the time came to move on to the next place and return to a more sociable way of life, he took the opportunity to drive me. During the journey, he opened about his dreams of leaving hospitality behind and working in nature.
He spoke about the toll COVID-19 took on his industry and his mental health. Yet, he still managed to beam with pride when speaking of his wife and budding young family. We hugged and traded WhatsApp’s (the mark of any travel friendship) and said our goodbyes.
Koh Phangan’s Lasting Impact
I returned to Koh Phangan some weeks later to show another special person the magic of the island. We stayed at the same resort to ensure we could see Raymond. Upon finding each other we hugged, he was proud to show my friend and I the various plants he’d curated around the resort.
When the time came to leave, he again drove us down. In the course of this journey, he revealed he had handed in his resignation. It was time to pursue the dream. I know he will be a success in whatever he chooses to do. His character is impeccable; that’s what matters. The same goes for all the denizens of the island that I’ve had the fortune of meeting.
It was a privilege to have this wealth of experience, a privilege to form these bonds and even more of a privilege to write about them. Partying is but one facet of this intrinsically magical place. I implore everyone that reads this – please, come and see for yourself.
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Author Bio: Cameron Tricker is a writer that hails from the same town as Thomas Paine. His writing can be found in Ink, Sweat & Tears, The Gamer, DUMBO Press, The Gentian and more.
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