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Cinnamon Bread. My wife was in search of cinnamon bread and because of it, we were standing in front of an oversized butterfly in eastern Tennessee at the foot of the Smoky Mountains as an affable, silver-haired sexagenarian was trying to coax a smile from me while she prepared to take our photograph.
Somewhere in the distance, a steam engine whistle let loose with its melodic tune. I smiled. Our photographer enthusiastically said,” Ta-da!” and snapped the picture.
We were at Dollywood, a 165-acre amusement park in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, that was opened in 1986 by one of Musicdom’s icons.
Kathy is a fan of Ms. Parton’s, so we booked a room at her Heartsong Lodge. Opened in the fall of 2023, the 302-room hotel fully embraces its surroundings. Situated in a valley, backed up against the rolling foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains, it features a stone fireplace with an outsized portrait of Dolly and huge vaulted ceilings adorned with oversized butterflies in the lobby.
One of the perks of staying at the resort was the ability to hop on a red trolley, which took us to the park within 10 minutes and dropped us off near the entrance.
On a warm, sunny morning, I found myself, hand-in-hand with my wife, walking towards the entry gates of Dollywood, a world wholly devoted to the celebrated singer’s vision of a perfect day.
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A security guard pointed his finger at Kathy and me and, loudly enough for anyone nearby to hear, stated, “Hey, you keep that up.” Looking at him with a perplexed look, he, smiling broadly, followed up with, “Holding hands. We can’t see enough of that around here. Keep it up!”
It was our introduction to what was to be a continuing theme for the day; the friendly, smiling delight of the park’s staff.
We entered a wide, tree-lined promenade beneath a canopy of pink streamers lined with colorful Victorian-style building facades. One of my first observations was the clean factor. The park hosts over 3 million visitors a year. You would expect and even accept a few pulled threads at the seams. Everything was fresh and well-kept. The park-like surroundings, with its trees and a wide array of flowers and flora, did not hurt either.
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I quickly realized the second pleasing aspect of Dollywood: the music. Not canned music emanating from hidden speakers, but live performers. As Kathy stepped into a small shop of southern food staples, I stood tapping my toes to the sounds of a string band at an outdoor gazebo.
I’ve reached a point in my life where torturing myself with so-called thrill rides is simply a non-starter. That is why my appreciation for Ms. Parton’s vision grew with each step through the park.
Her park is unique in that so much of its theme is tied to her life instead of some make-believe character. Dolly’s early life experiences are everywhere and readily shared with visitors.
Dolly’s Humble Cabin
A re-creation of the cabin that Dolly and her family of 12 grew up in offers a glimpse of the star’s early life. The log cabin, which stood just a few miles away in the foothills of the Smoky Mountains, had no electricity or running water.
Parton’s brother built the replica, and her mother decorated the inside with original family belongings. Its simplicity and the poverty it represents stand in complete contrast to the ever-expanding empire surrounding it.
So much of the park seems to revolve around nostalgia. Bits and pieces of fond memories that Dolly had of her youthful life in the nearby hills of Appalachia.
Appalachia has a rich culture of arts and crafts. The park’s hands-on demonstrations highlight that history.
The Crafts of Dollywood
The timeless art of hand-blown glass is revealed daily at Mountain Blown Glass. I stood with a few others as we watched Chris, the glass blower, breathe life into a glowing, molten blob of glass. He slowly coaxed it into a small lamp. In the meantime, Kathy was in the shop purchasing a glass-blown butterfly.
You cannot miss the countless images of butterflies strewn throughout the park. A butterfly even replaces the W in Dollywood. Dolly has said that she claims them as her little symbol. “Butterflies don’t sting, they don’t bite, and are so beautiful.”
A blacksmith’s shop has a smell like no other. First of all, in this day and age, you do not find too many of them, but when you do, that smell grabs you. Valley Forge Blacksmith has that smell.
As I entered the red barn, the smithy was twisting a red-hot railroad spike in a vice. Nearby, coal in the forge smoldered with a glow emanating from its center. The slightly acrid smell of heated iron blended with the earthiness of sweaty muscle is what strikes you. He was creating a knife that would eventually be for sale in the gift shop alongside a litany of forged implements. For a small fee, you can make your knife with their assistance.
For something less strenuous, you can dip your own candles at Old Flames Candles, just across the way from the forge. The different demonstrations were so unique that I almost forgot we were in a park filled with amusement rides.
That Famous Cinnamon Bread
Most popular, however, is the Grist Mill, home of the long sought-after famous pull-apart cinnamon bread.
We watched as bakers prepared the dough, painting it with brushes full of butter and covering it with mounds of cinnamon and sugar. We snagged two loaves and slipped over to the Valley Theatre.
While an energetic show of country and western tunes was performed, we sat at the rear splitting a loaf of the most wonderful concoction—a dripping, gooey, sticky cinnamon sweet bread that I literally could not stop eating. Small cups of white icing and apple butter had been provided, but they were completely superfluous.
The Music of Dollywood
Music is Dolly Parton. For decades, she has delivered her excellent songwriting and singing talents to the world. Dollywood does not forget that background. Every corner is filled with live shows.
The latest is From “The Heart: The Life & Music of Dolly Parton” at her Celebrity Theater. The performance chronicles her life from her early years in East Tennessee through her rise to fame in Nashville utilizing her music. We sat in a half-empty auditorium and watched the musical album of her growing into her talent.
Jukebox Junction is a 1950s-themed area that includes the 1,000-seat Pines Theater with its Dreamland Drive-In musical. The story captivated us with its musical trip down memory lane. Hits of the 50s and 60s come alive with 16 performers and musicians, which made us relive childhood memories.
Throughout the park, there are large and small theaters filled with performers. From Bluegrass to country and early rock-and-roll, it’s all here, and it’s included in the park’s admission.
Loving Dolly
As we strolled through the park past an outsized “Love” sign, we were met with many smiles. Multi-generational families were laughing and animatedly talking their way through the afternoon. Many were sporting Dolly t-shirts and pink cowboy hats. Most parks revolve around caricatures of mice, wizards, and other assorted walking, talking cartoons.
Not here. It is all about Dolly, and there is an evident worshipfulness of the Southern icon and her fun, over-the-top, family-relatable, and bewigged self.
And the atmosphere was so…homey. The park has an almost family reunion atmosphere. Everyone greeted total strangers with smiles and occasional hellos as though they were seeing a long-lost acquaintance.
Food
Dollywood is a paradise for anyone who loves old-fashioned Southern comfort food such as smoked ham, pot roast, fried chicken, cornbread, and pinto beans.
We were getting hungry and were looking for something other than the usual amusement park funnel cake, hotdog, or kettle corn offerings (all of which are available).
We chose Granny Ogle’s Ham ‘N’ Beans, housed in a yellow clapboard home that looks like it was transported right out of Mayberry. Our friendly server, bedecked in a floral-print apron and bonnet, greeted us with a smile and an offering of iced tea.
I opted for the Meatloaf Stacker. A ridiculously thick meatloaf sat atop an abundant slice of bread covered with a pile of mashed potatoes in a lake of brown gravy, with a side of green beans. I believe Kathy got the smoked Ham Slider sandwich, but honestly, I was so busy deconstructing the excellent stacker that I paid little attention.
Satiated, we stepped slowly out of Granny’s when the melodic tune of a steam whistle beckoned me again.
The Dollywood Express
I am told that Dollywood is home to nine thrilling roller coasters, which is lovely if you are seeking an adrenaline rush as you plunge into 20 heart-stopping stories. Dollywood has a good mix of great thrill rides for those inclined. However, if, like me, you prefer to keep your feet planted on terra firma, there is a ride that tends to appeal to all.
The Dollywood Express is a 36″ narrow gauge steam railway that circles the park on a 5-mile loop. The nearly century-old coal-fired steam engine originally hauled troops and construction equipment for Alaska’s White Pass & Yukon railroad as the army built the Alaskan Highway.
We boarded the open-air coaches at the station. As the whistle blasted out its announcement, a towering pall of black smoke burst from the stack as we eased our way forward. While we waved to the onlookers lined along the track, the engine quickly picked up speed, taking us on our journey.
The circuitous route took us past rollercoasters, parachute drops, and smiling crowds who stared in our direction every time the whistle blew. Soon, we were in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains. This was the kind of thrill I could embrace.
Afterward, speaking to the engineer, he shared that the 110-ton engine goes through 2-to-4 tons of coal and 4,000 gallons of water daily.
Departing the park, we settled into the trolley for our ride back to the resort. Our driver serenaded us with an enthusiastic acapella rendition of Proud Mary, and we awarded him a heartfelt round of applause.
Sitting with others around the massive firepit back at the resort that evening, we shared thoughts of the day. Dollywood is an amusement park, there is no doubt. But there is such a downhome feeling to it that you forget its immense size. The smiles, the shared adventure of Dolly’s life, and the love emanating from every corner make you feel as though you are being welcomed to her front porch.
Maybe we were.
If You Go:
Dollywood is located 35 miles southeast of Knoxville in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, near Gatlinburg and The Great Smoky Mountains.
A One-Day Pass costs $92 per person, $82 for seniors and children, and $22.78 for parking.
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