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On a recent trip to the UK, we decided to break up our land-based holiday with a unique adventure exploring the quintessentially English countryside on a longboat.
Our destination of choice? Wiltshire and the Kennet and Avon Canal that stretches from Bristol through to Bath and then on to Devizes and beyond. Our vessel? A 66ft traditional narrowboat that forms part of the Alvechurch Fleet from ABC Boat Hire, courtesy of Drifters Waterway Holidays.
The Hilperton Start: A Seamless Beginning
At the heart of Wiltshire, Hilperton Marina served as the perfect launch pad for our boating journey. After a comprehensive briefing and handover by the friendly team at ABC Boat Hire, we were ready to set off on our first time navigating a longboat.
As we left the marina, the first few hours were about getting used to the boat’s slow pace and handling.
The beauty of this type of travel is the immediacy with which you can relax. There’s no traffic, no rush, and nowhere to be in a hurry. It’s just you, nature, water, and the sound of the birds on the canal.
Cruising Toward Bath: Nature and History
The route from the marina toward Bath took us through tranquil countryside punctuated by the occasional lock. We stopped for the night just before the first one on the outskirts of Bradford on Avon, a picturesque town just 6 miles from Bath.
It was the perfect place to stop and explore, with its charming narrow streets, old stone buildings, and riverside pubs.
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From there the following morning, and now starting to feel more comfortable on our boat, we followed the canal for a few more hours past quaint villages and old stone bridges. The landscape offered lush greenery and a glimpse into English farm life.
As we approached Bath, the limestone Georgian buildings on the hillside signaled that we were approaching the historic city. Here, we moored up, ready to explore the bustling streets, ancient Roman Baths, the Royal Crescent, and iconic river views—a definite highlight of our journey.
Heading East: Devizes and Its Iconic Locks
Back the way we’d come and on the other side of Hilperton, Devizes, a charming market town famous for its Caen Hill Locks, was also beckoning to be explored. The 16 locks in a row here raise the canal over 237 feet in just 2 miles and are considered one of the wonders of the British canal system.
While we decided to moor instead at the bottom of this iconic lock system and walk alongside the locks rather than tackle this physically demanding challenge, the sense of accomplishment on fellow boaters’ faces after passing through was unmatched.
But before we reached Caen Hill, we simply enjoyed the canal as it weaved through open fields home to sheep, cows, and horses. The route to Devizes was slightly quieter than the Bath leg but no less beautiful, with only the occasional cyclist alongside the river or fellow boater interrupting the quiet.
Arriving in Devizes itself felt like stepping back in time. The town has retained much of its historical charm, and wandering through its weekly Thursday market made for a delightful detour before heading back on the water.
Aboard the Arabian Lark: Comfort and Practicality
The Arabian Lark, the vessel we hired from ABC Boat Hire, was a highly capable and versatile longboat ideal for our small family.
With two separate bedrooms and bathrooms, each with its own shower and a lounge area that can be converted into additional sleeping space, it comfortably accommodated our group of three adults and two small children.
The boat also came equipped with everything we could need to cater for ourselves on board, thanks to a fully functional galley kitchen complete with an oven, fridge, and microwave, making it easy to prepare meals on board.
There were also small outdoor seating areas at both the front and the back of the boat, where we could enjoy the scenery as we meandered along the canal.
If You Go: Practical Tips for Would-Be Boaters
You don’t need a skipper’s ticket or any experience to rent a longboat, although I recommend it. My husband is a yacht skipper by trade, and even for him, the sheer length of these boats took some getting used to.
In terms of moorings, you can overnight moor anywhere along the towpath, and a handy video provided before travel will demonstrate how to moor and handle the locks.
You’ll need at least two, preferably three, capable adults to navigate the locks, so if you’re short on hands, the route to Bath may be a better option than trying to navigate the intense series of locks at Devizes.
There are volunteers around who can assist you at certain locks should you need some extra help. The process becomes easier and more enjoyable with practice. The team from ABC Boat Hire is also on hand to offer helpful support should you need it.
When it comes to getting to your boat, the nearest airport to Hilperton Marina is Bristol Airport, which is about 45 minutes away by car; however, for international travelers, London Heathrow is also an option, approximately a two-hour drive away.
You can rent a car or use public transport to reach Hilperton, with Trowbridge as the closest train station (just 10 minutes away by taxi).
On your packing list, you’ll want to ensure you have at least one pair of comfortable shoes as you’ll be walking plenty on towpaths and while exploring towns.
You’ll also want a good pair of wellies and an umbrella, as this is England, and rain is a common occurrence. Full waterproofs are provided onboard if you do find yourself navigating in a downpour. When it comes to clothing, layers work best.
Even in summer, the weather can be unpredictable, especially in the evenings, and a windproof jacket is essential for handling locks.
While the boat does have power, you’ll want to avoid running the batteries down when you’re not cruising, so portable chargers and adapters are handy to keep your electronics powered while on board.
For provisioning, it’s best to stock up before you collect your boat so that you’re free to explore as soon as you arrive and have completed your handover. If you want, you can pay for the team at ABC Boat Hire to provision the vessel for you in advance.
Fuel is also pre-payable with a deposit, which will be partially refunded depending on how much fuel you use along the way.
A Personal Reflection: The Joy of Canal Cruising
What made our journey truly special was the ability to dictate our pace. Some days, we decided to cover more distance, spending virtually the entire time cruising long, while other times, we chose to linger in a particular spot, venturing on foot into one of the historic towns that dotted the canal.
It’s a holiday that is not just about the destination but the journey, offering the perfect balance of relaxation and adventure.
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