Holiday Travel: Innsbruck, Austria at Christmastime

The skies are beginning to grow dark as my husband, Benjamin, and I follow the cobblestone streets of Innsbruck, Austria. Huge chandelier lights illuminate our path, and twinkling lights and red bows cover doorways and windowsills along the way.

Innsbruck, Austria is a beautiful place to visit any time of year, but it transforms into a winter wonderland during the holidays. Even the crisp air is laced with the scent of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine.

Christmas Markets in Innsbruck

Austria celebrates the holidays with gusto, and nowhere is that more evident than at the Christmas markets.

Christmas markets are a beloved tradition in Austria, and Innsbruck’s Christmas markets are nothing short of enchanting. Scattered throughout the city, each market offers its own unique atmosphere.

The Christkindlmarkt in the Old Town is the most iconic, where the glittering Golden Roof provides a picturesque backdrop. Strolling through the wooden stalls, I find handcrafted ornaments, delicate lacework, and warm woolen hats.

Food is my favorite part of Austrian Christmas markets. Ben and I purchase some hot Glühwein, and I cradle the festive cup to warm my hands.

Gingerbread, sizzling bratwurst, and sweet roasted almonds are a festive treat that’s impossible to resist.

Innsbruck has several different Christmas markets. For families with little ones, the Christmas market in Marktplatz (Market Square) is a favorite. It has the feel of a Tyrolean village, and there are children’s programs, including puppet shows and a traditional carousel.

I also like the Christmas market on Maria Theresian Street. The street is magical, lined by Christmas trees covered in twinkling lights. The market has a wide range of items for sale and all the traditional Christmas market foods and drinks.

Winter in Innsbruck

The holidays are the perfect time to experience winter in Innsbruck. This city of 130,000 is nestled right against the Alps, offering a vast playground for winter sports.

A Day of Skiing in Kühtai

Skiing is a huge draw for the area. Ben and I head to the ski resort of Kühtai, which is a short drive from Innsbruck. Our private ski instructor is fun and promises a day of alpine adventure.

While the skiing is good, my favorite part of the day is our hearty lunch at one of the resort’s cozy mountain cabins. We fill up on schnitzel and Kaiserschmarrn (a type of shredded pancake dessert), which is a favorite anytime.

Visiting the Bergisel Ski Jump

We also visit the Bergisel Ski Jump, a marvel of modern architecture and athletic prowess. Perched high above Innsbruck, this iconic venue has hosted two Winter Olympics and offers breathtaking views.

We ride the funicular to the top, where a panoramic restaurant and observation deck await. It’s a perfect spot to admire the snow-covered Tyrolean landscape while imagining the courage of the ski jumpers who take the plunge.

Top of Innsbruck: The Nordkette

The Nordkette is another must-do when you visit Innsbruck. The Nordkette is a range of mountains just north of Innsbruck. But it’s more than just a mountain range; it’s a gateway to adventure.

To reach it, Ben and I ride the futuristic cable car. You hop on in the city center, and then the cable car ascends to Seegrube station. The views here are awe-inspiring, with the city below framed by rugged peaks.

We then continue to Hafelekar, the highest point, where we are surrounded by the silence of the snow-covered wilderness at the top. The Nordkette is ideal for skiers, snowboarders, and even those simply looking to soak in the beauty of the Alps.

A Visit to Schloss Ambras

On our third day in Innsbruck, we get up early to head to Schloss Ambras, a Renaissance castle perched on a hill overlooking Innsbruck. This historic castle houses an impressive art and armor collection, including the Chamber of Art and Wonders. The elegant Spanish Hall, with its frescoed ceiling and intricate woodwork, is particularly stunning.

We arrive at Schloss Ambras just after it opens, so we are happily the only visitors in many of the rooms. Later, when I share a photo of one of the halls on Instagram, my friend sends me a crowded photo of him at the Louvre. “Wish I were there instead,” he writes.

I feel lucky to have experienced such a beautiful place like Schloss Ambras without the crush of crowds. Wandering the castle’s halls in near solitude allows you to fully appreciate its beauty and history.

A Tyrolean Evening

At dinner, Ben and I immerse ourselves in Tyrolean culture with an evening of music, dance, and hearty cuisine at A Tyrolean Evening, a musical show featuring Tyrolean songs, dance, and even yodeling. This family-run affair includes dinner with the show. It’s a fun evening as we dine on schnitzel and apple strudel and enjoy this musical family’s talent.

Swarovski Crystal Worlds

Swarovski Crystal Worlds is one of the top attractions in Innsbruck, and as we learn, you need a whole afternoon to visit.

Located just outside Innsbruck in Wattens, Swarovski Crystal Worlds is a dazzling blend of art and fantasy. The museum’s sparkling exhibits include intricate crystal installations and the iconic Giant, whose head marks the entrance.

Outside, the gardens are a whimsical display of lights and reflective pools. The store at Swarovski Crystal Worlds offers items at all price points.

Lightshow Lumagica in the Imperial Garden

After visiting the Christmas markets one evening, we walk to the historic Hofgarten Park in the heart of Innsbruck’s Old Town. A spectacular light show called Lumagica transforms the Imperial Gardens into a fairy-tale landscape.

Illuminated sculptures, interactive displays, and twinkling pathways make this a magical evening outing. We like the playful and festive experience of wandering through Lumagica.

How to Get to Innsbruck

Innsbruck has an airport with flights to other European cities, but if you’re arriving from North America, you’ll connect through Munich, Zurich, or Vienna. We arrived by train from Vienna. The main train station, Hauptbahnhof Innsbruck, is close to the city center. From there, it’s easy to get around by walking or public transportation.

Where to Stay

Ben and I stayed at the Alders Hotel, which was very nice and centrally located. We could walk to almost everywhere we needed to go. Its modern rooms have panoramic views of the mountains, and the breakfast—complete with local pastries and fresh coffee—was the perfect way to start our days.

Where to Eat in Innsbruck

Innsbruck’s culinary scene is a nice blend of traditional Tyrolean flavors and modern twists. Here are several restaurants we liked and recommend.

• Ottoburg (Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 1): Housed in a medieval tower, this restaurant serves hearty classics like venison stew and dumplings.
• Mutterer Alm: Located just outside the city, this alpine hut offers comfort food with spectacular mountain views.
• Restaurant 1809: Named after a key year in Tyrolean history, this spot blends history with innovation in its cuisine.
• Stiftskeller (Stiftgasse 1): A historic beer hall offering generous portions of schnitzel, sausages, and strudel.